How Can I Reduce My Heating Bill?

If you’ve read my posts before, you know I’ve had mixed feelings about heat pumps. On the one hand, they’re great. On the other, historically, natural gas, and even heating oil, have provided heat for your home cheaper than the electricity based heat pump. But, for many reasons, especially environmental ones, my preference is to use heat pumps for primary heating and cooling.

Fossil fuels are a dead end

This last year, we’ve seen historic price increases in fossil fuels that have hit almost every household. Heating oil, natural gas and propane bills shot up, often doubling your heating bills. On top of that, automotive gas prices increased like crazy. These price spikes inflated the prices of just about everything – from fertilizer to vegetables. From avocados to sneakers. Fossil fuel prices affect almost everything.

Now is the time to add a heat pump

If you have central air conditioning, you can probably switch to a heat pump without too much difficulty.

An air conditioner and a heat pump are virtually identical. The difference is, a heat pump has an extra valve that allows the indoor air to blow cold or hot. You might have noticed that the outdoor air conditioner blows out hot air when it runs. A heat pump just switches it so that the hot air blows indoors instead of outdoors. When the air blows hot inside, the cold air blows outside. It’s the way these refrigerant based systems work. One side is hot and the other side is cold.

The great thing about heat pumps is they can be really efficient. Modern heat pumps give you three to four times as much heat out as the electrical power you put in. Think of a hair dryer. That’s considered almost 100% efficient because it converts those 1,500 electric Watts into an equivalent amount of heat. A heat pump, seemingly miraculously, can take the 1,500 Watts and convert it into the equivalent of 5,000 Watts of heat.

If you replace your air conditioner with a properly sized heat pump, you can heat your home super efficiently for most of the year without burning a drop of fossil fuels at home. You can do a heat pump retrofit if you have an existing furnace that burns oil, propane or natural gas and uses the same air handling system for air conditioning. You can continue using the furnace for the coldest parts of winter or when you need to warm your house quickly.

How much money will I save by using a heat pump?

There are a lot of details that go into answering this question. The first is: “how much does electricity cost per kilo-Watt-hour?” and “how much does my gas/oil/propane cost per gallon?”

It does get more complicated. Your local climate makes a huge difference. For example, if you live in a place where the winters are relatively mild, you can probably heat your home all year with just the heat pump and use no fossil fuels. In fact, if you live in a place like that, fossil fuel furnaces are probably relatively rare. In that climate, heat pumps are mostly a “no-brainer.”

Where it becomes trickier is where the winters are long and cold. Heat pumps will work but may struggle when it gets much colder out. In fact, the heat pump is most efficient when it’s only “cool”, like 45 degrees, F. As the temperature drops, the heat pump loses efficiency and also puts out less heat. This is exactly the opposite of what you need! But that’s the physics of it. So if you live in a climate where it’s below freezing for long periods of time, the heat pump might not be the best alternative. However, even then, a heat pump can reduce your utility bills.

During the Spring and Fall, we often start using our heating systems to take the edge off. Maybe it’s 45-60 degrees out. With a heat pump working in its optimal range, you can heat your home without using any fossil fuel. This might reduce your gas/oil/propane bills by 50% or more. Again, it depends on the cost of electricity versus the cost of your fuel.

Let’s run a few examples. Currently, home heating oil is up to about $5/gallon. That’s crazy high, so I won’t use that for comparison. Instead, I’ll use $3.20/gallon, which is about what it cost in PA during the winter of 2021/2022. Electricity here cost about $0.15/kWh when you factor in the generation and transmission costs. Some places are much cheaper, some much more expensive, so you need to adjust for your own utility costs.

At these costs, assuming typical efficiencies for furnaces and heat pumps, it would cost about half as much to heat with a heat pump, during mild weather, than using heating oil. As the temperature drops, the savings will be less, but still substantial. So, at these electricity and fuel costs, I’d say a heat pump falls into that “no-brainer” category. Every year you keep your AC and only run the oil furnace, you’re losing money. If you’re going to be in your home for more than a few more years, you could pay off the heat pump with the savings. Again, there are many factors, so you have to run your own numbers for comparison.

Now, consider what happens if oil stays at $5/gallon or goes higher for next winter. At that price, you would spend one third as much (!) on heating with a heat pump compared with oil. If you use 750 gallons of oil, the oil would cost $3,750. The electricity for the heat pump would cost only $1,250, saving you $2,500. Who knows what prices will do?

You also have to consider the “incremental costs” of upgrading to a heat pump. Suppose your air conditioner is old and you’re thinking about replacing it. It’s probably inefficient. If you replaced it with a modern heat pump, it would be cheaper for air conditioning AND you’d save money using it for heating. Since you would need to replace the AC anyway, the additional cost of the heat pump compared to a new AC unit might be small so the combination of cost savings on air conditioning and heating could pay off the additional purchase cost very quickly.

Cost comparisons for natural gas are similar. Gas prices fluctuated wildly this winter and people saw their costs double. Gas prices have since dropped a lot, but there’s no telling what will happen in the future.

I’d be remiss not to mention the price fluctuations in electricity. My own electricity costs increased about 10% this year. Others in Pennsylvania saw their electric costs double. This happened all over the country, so again, you have to do your own comparisons.

Other advantages and conclusions

There are other advantages to using a heat pump. How often do you maintain your air conditioner? Most people only call their HVAC company when they have problems. On the other hand, when you have a combustion system, you should really get it cleaned and checked at least once a year.

Safety is another important consideration. A heat pump doesn’t burn fuel, so there’s no chance of carbon monoxide poisoning. Sadly, while rare, fossil fuel systems are responsible for about 430 carbon monoxide related deaths each year, according to the CDC. They also say that about 50,000 people are hospitalized each year from accidental carbon monoxide poisoning.

If you have propane or heating oil, you have to store fuel in tanks on your property. Heat pumps use the same electricity that powers your home. No need for storage, so you never need to worry about “filling up the tanks.” Convenience with heat pumps is a big benefit.

All things considered, if you live in a mild or moderate climate, a heat pump might be a great upgrade for your air conditioning system. You can save money on your summer air conditioning and winter heating while avoiding the inconvenience and potential dangers of a fossil fuel burning system. You might even get a rebate from your electric company, as many want you to use heat pumps instead of burning fossil fuels.

Support Ted’s Tips over at Patreon.com

Here's Ted capturing a thermal image

Here’s Ted capturing a thermal image

People keep asking me how I can do this for free. They say I should sell my services (done that) or charge for website access (won’t do that!) But it got me thinking about how people could drop a quarter in my tip jar, so to speak.

For years, I’ve heard about various systems for doing this, and now I’ve finally decided to take the plunge and signed up at Patreon.com. Patreon is a cool site set up to let people support their favorite creators. Whether they’re musicians, journalists or energy Geeks like me, Patreon lets you say “thanks” to those that bring something to your life.

I’m not much of a self promoter, so I’m not going to do this often. If you think I’m doing something useful here and feel like contributing, just head over to Patreon.

p.s. Ted’s Tips will be free for the foreseeable future. Patreon is just a way for you to provide positive feedback any time I do another post. It helps pay for the coffee that fuels this site.

Cheers!

 

 

Understanding and Evaluating Heat Pumps

Heat pumps are a bit of magic. But you use one in your home every day – your refrigerator. So if you can accept that your fridge works, somehow making 0 degree air from the 70 degree air in your home, plus some compressor action, then you should be able to accept that heat pumps can produce 95 degree air to heat your home while it’s 25 degrees outside.

I’m not going to subject you to a full lesson on thermodynamics and the refrigeration cycle. Instead, I just want you to accept the fact that heat pumps work on the same principles as refrigerators and air conditioners – they move energy from one place to another. In the process, they make one side of the system hotter and the other side colder.

Heat pumps, refrigerators and air conditioners all work the same way – they move heat from one place to another, amplifying the effect using a compressor and refrigerants.

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The Energy Geek Video 3: Ultra Efficient Heat Pump Review

I bumped this back up to top of the list since it’s one of the most popular posts I’ve ever done. I also just had the misfortune of losing ALL THREE indoor units during a recent storm and power surge that killed appliances all around my development. Argh! However, they’re up and running again, good as new.

I love these heat pumps! There’s one in the bedroom, one in the basement “party room” and one in the large, living room that’s full of windows – a space that has been uncomfortable for years.

After installing these systems, I don’t know how we dealt without them before. The summer comfort is waaay better than ever. And in our basement room, I turned off the main heating system and used the Fujitsu exclusively all winter.

Keep in mind that this is one special little unit. There are many mini-split systems on the market that look like this, but most of them are barely half as efficient as this one. They’re just not in the same league.

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Reduce your heating bills – seal your ducts

This is wasting more energy than leaving a window open

I admit it – I go crazy when I see leaky ducts. I’m not talking about ducts that have little leaks, I’m talking about problems that cost you hundreds of dollars per year and could be fixed in a few minutes with a piece of tape.

Incompetent heating contractors hate me. Why? Because I’m on a mission to give you the information you need to know when they’re ripping you off.  On the other hand, quality contractors love my information because I arm you with knowledge so you can tell the difference between the good ones and the bad ones.

Sound interesting? Read on!

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The Top 5 Things to winterize your home

Worse than useless air filter

Freezing temperatures are setting in around much of the country, so now what do you do? While each house is unique, there are some things to remember to avoid unpleasant surprises and expensive repairs later one.

#1: Winterize your outdoor water pipes

We all know, when pipes freeze, they often burst due to the extreme pressures exerted by the ice as it forms. If you have hoses outside, disconnect them from the faucet, drain the water that might be trapped in them, and store them for the winter.

If you have a pool or pond that needs winterization, make sure all exposed plumbing is drained. Some systems need to be filled with anti-freeze. Remember, any exposed pipes and even buried pipes, are likely to burst if there’s water in them over the winter.

Most homes have outdoor faucets for hoses. Modern faucets are “no-freeze” design, because they put the valve inside the house where the freeze hazard is lower. However, there are still millions of homes with older fixtures that get destroyed if not drained during the winter. Check your faucets for a shut-off valve inside the house and ensure that they’re drained properly.

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How to Increase the Energy Efficiency of Your Existing Home

This post by an energy auditor in central PA summarizes a lot of the information required to make your home more energy efficient, all in one spot. It’s like you took all my posts to date and wrapped it up into a single article! Definitely worth a skim.

For those of your unfamiliar with ChrisMartenson.com, Chris is a scientist who, several years ago, started investigating peak-oil – the fact that at some point, you can’t extract oil from the Earth any faster, and from there, it’s downhill. As he investigated it, he got more and more worried, because pretty much everything we do depends upon having essentially an unlimited supply of oil.

Chris is passionate about this cause. So passionate that he produced a series of videos and is traveling the world giving lectures about how to prepare. At first it seems nutty, especially if you’re of the mindset that “technology will always find a solution”, but if you listen carefully and do your own research, you may find yourself buying in to what he says.

I started following him a few years ago, and combined what he said with what I learned from various investment newsletters and other sources. That gave me an advanced warning to shift from classical stocks into metals and mining a few years ago, before the market tanked and mining stocks skyrocketed.

Whether you agree with him or not, his “Crash Course” is well worth viewing as it provides additional insights that you can use to better understand the complex, resource limited world in which we’re now living.

Ultimate attic insulation

Icy roof deck, not a good sign!

In the first two posts of this overly wordy series, we saw a few ways to insulate an attic while avoiding some of the worst problems that can lead to moldy, rotten attics and roofs.

If you recall, the big problem is that moisture from the house rises up through the walls and all the little cracks around light fixtures, hatches, wiring, and the moisture condenses on cool surfaces. Over time, this will lead to mold growth and potentially, rotten roofs.

How do you know if you’ve got a problem? I’ll give you a hint – if you have ice forming under your roof like in this picture, you had better do something before you have to replace your roof!

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The best way to insulate your attic – part 2

Wow, where's that hole go?

In the first installment on attic insulation, I discussed why it can be dangerous to add insulation to your attic without air sealing the attic floor first. Moisture can slip through tiny cracks in the attic floor and lead to rotten roofs. Given this information, we walked through the process of finding and sealing all those insidious air leaks in your attic, some easy, some difficult. But finally, after fixing all these problems, you could lay more insulation down on your attic floor, more confident that doing so wouldn’t lead to a humid, moldy attic.

But what if there’s an easier way?

Whether you’re building a new house or retrofitting an older one, you can make life much easier on yourself by using professionally applied spray foam insulation that air seals and insulates in one shot. There are two ways of doing this, each with their own benefits and disadvantages. We’re going to review both methods. One is spraying foam on the attic floor, instead of using loose fill or batt insulation. The other is spraying foam under the roof deck. Continue reading

How to prevent your boiler from stealing your money

Energy Kinetics System 2000

Energy Kinetics System 2000

In the last article, “Is your boiler stealing your money?“, I discussed why most boilers are ripping you off. Contrary to what almost every HVAC saleperson or tech will tell you, your boiler does not operate at 84% efficiency. It doesn’t operate at 80%! Heck, much of the year, it doesn’t operate at 50% efficiency!

To review, the reasons for this include:

  • High operating temperature
  • Minimal insulation
  • Infrequent use
  • → Outrageously high standby losses

In this article, I’m going to discuss how to do it right. But if you’re too lazy to read the entire article, stop right here and go to the Energy Kinetics website.

But first, I’m going to save you $10,000….

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